Thursday, May 30, 2024

With Safety, Never Compromise. Choose NFPA® as Your Trusted Source


When it comes to work that affects the safety of lives and property, failure is not an option. For over 125 years, NFPA has been a proactive safety organization that vets challenges and researches solutions to help people the world over do uncompromisingly good work. Driven by passionate experts, NFPA is a trusted source of information that leads the world in developing guidance and resources for fire, electrical, and life safety. If you and your company don’t compromise the work that you offer, then you can’t compromise on the quality of information and knowledge that prepare you to work at the highest level. As building materials, technologies, and social challenges change, work with greater efficiency, productivity, and safety by working with superior knowledge. Our products, services, and events include: ● NFPA LiNK® ● NFPA Conference & Expo® ● Individual Membership, Electrical Inspection Membership ● Fire Prevention Week™ ● NFPA 70®, National Electrical Code® (NEC®) ● NFPA 70E®, Standard for Electrical Safety in the Workplace® ● NFPA 101®, Life Safety Code® ● Fire Protection Handbook® (FPH®) ● And much more To learn more, visit nfpa.org.

Monday, May 27, 2024

How to Use a Fire Extinguisher


Watch more Home Security & Safety videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/341988-... Accidents happen. Be prepared to fight your own fire by learning how to use a fire extinguisher. Step 1: Know how fire extinguishers are classified Know how fire extinguishers are classified. Class A extinguishers are for common combustibles like paper or wood; Class B are for flammable liquids; and Class C are for electrical fires. Tip The Red Cross recommends ABC classified fire extinguishers for home use. Step 2: Inspect the fire extinguisher Inspect the fire extinguisher before use. Read instructions and warnings; check that the pressure gauge needle is in the green portion of the gauge; and check for a clogged nozzle, a broken seal, or other damage. Tip A fire extinguisher won’t work if it’s not properly charged. The pressure gauge measures the charge. Step 3: Decide if you'll evacuate or stay and fight Decide if you’ll evacuate or stay and fight the fire. Consider the size of the fire, the amount of smoke in the room, and whether there is a reliable escape route. Step 4: Remember the acronym PASS Remember the acronym PASS. It stands for Pull, Aim, Squeeze, and Sweep. Step 5: Pull the pin that unlocks the operating handle Pull the pin or ring that unlocks the fire extinguisher’s operating handle, and aim the extinguisher at the base of the fire. Tip Aim at the fire from 6 to 8 feet away. Step 6: Squeeze extinguisher lever to discharge contents Squeeze the extinguisher lever to discharge its contents, and sweep the hose back and forth until the extinguisher is empty. Did You Know? Food Network star Alton Brown used a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher, a water cooler bottle, and a tennis racket to make a fruit smoothie on television.

Friday, May 24, 2024

This Old House | Demo Time (S39 E18) | FULL EPISODE


Kevin is at one of Charleston's architectural gems, a house called Sword Gate. The wrought iron gates out front have swords welded into them. SUBSCRIBE to This Old House: http://bit.ly/SubscribeThisOldHouse. Kevin and Tom meet the builder, Lindsay Nevin, whose company is up for the challenge. Lindsay discusses some of the strict rules to follow when it comes to renovating old houses in historic Charleston. Heat, humidity and water are usually the major issues of these old wooden houses, and the only way to assess the damage is to start a careful demo. At the Single House project, Kevin finds Tommy and general contractor Mark in the kitchen house. Mark explains his plan to dig out and pour a concrete slab, and they get to work pulling up floorboards. When it comes to educating the next generation of tradespeople, the American College of the Building Arts, is the only school in the country with a four-year college program which focuses on the building trades. Meanwhile, demolition is in full swing and Judith's backyard is filling up with debris. Judith wants to improve the landscaping as well as the house, and she has some favorite shrubs and trees she'd like to use as green screening. Roger meets her to discuss planting options, and then he travels to a southern nursery to find out what plants will work in the sub-tropics. The nursery can ship out the plants as soon as the yard is ready. Over at the Single House, it's time to privy dive. Richard discusses the history of the outhouse in Charleston and what's buried beneath the surface. Enjoying full-episodes of This Old House? Join This Old House INSIDER to stream every episode ever made of This Old House (over 1,000 hours), commercial-free. https://bit.ly/32CLaGe Plus, download our FREE app for full-episode streaming to your connected TV, phone or tablet: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/pages/st... Products and Services from this episode General Contractor – Charleston Single House Category: Contractors & Services, Building Resources Contractor Renew Urban http://www.renewurban.net/ General Contractor – Elliotborough House Category: Contractors & Services Contractor Flyway Construction http://www.flywaysc.com/construction/ Landscape design – Elliotborough House Category: Landscaping, Design Contractor ADC Engineering http://adcengineering.com Local Trade School Category: Building Resources, Miscellaneous, Generation NEXT Side Trip American College of the Building Arts http://americancollegeofthebuildingar... nursery visit Category: Landscaping Side Trip Fast-Growing-Trees https://www.fast-growing-trees.com About This Old House TV: This Old House is America’s first and most trusted home improvement show. Each season, we renovate two different historic homes—one step at a time—featuring quality craftsmanship and the latest in modern technology. We demystify home improvement and provide ideas and information so, whether you are doing it yourself or hiring out contractors, you’ll know the right way to do things or the questions to ask. Our experts including general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, landscape contractor Jenn Nawada, master carpenter Norm Abram, and host Kevin O’Connor give you the tools you need to protect and preserve your greatest investment—your home. Follow This Old House: Facebook: http://bit.ly/ThisOldHouseFB Twitter: http://bit.ly/ThisOldHouseTwitter Pinterest: http://bit.ly/ThisOldHousePinterest Instagram: http://bit.ly/ThisOldHouseIG

Tuesday, May 21, 2024

HFSC Home Security Camera Living Room Fire


A home security camera captured an actual living room fire, showing how quickly a fire can spread. Every home should have a working smoke alarm and residents should practice an escape plan. All new homes should be protected with home fire sprinklers. For more information about home fire sprinklers: https://homefiresprinkler.org/

Saturday, May 18, 2024

This Old House | A House for the Next Generation


A homeowner inherits her childhood home but wants to accommodate their children and in-laws. Mike Rowe visits to discuss the need for a new generation of skilled tradespeople.

Wednesday, May 15, 2024

An Overview of Water Damage Classifications and Categories


Water damage comes in a variety of forms that can be merely annoying or potentially dangerous, depending on the source of the flow. Today, we will go over the general categories of water leaks, the type of damage they can cause and the recommended steps to treat them. Water damage is split up into various categories and classifications according to standards set by the IICRC.

Category 1 (Clear Water)

This type of water damage occurs when a pipe or appliance springs a leak or overflows when left on unattended. Fortunately, in these types of situations, the water is usually clean and does not pose any real risk to you immediately. Clean water damage typically is an issue for the surrounding environment, such as carpets, books and other belongings which are not waterproof and may need restoration work done if the flooding happens over a long period of time. Additionally, water damage can potentially lead to more severe issues such as mold growth that will need the attention of a professional mold inspector and remediator.

Category 2 (Grey Water)

Gray water damage involves some degree of contamination, whether it's physical, biological or chemical. In layman's terms, gray water is dangerous but not hazardous and needs some form of remediation in order to ensure that the environment is properly restored for human inhabitation. The most common household gray water situations come from toilets, dishwashers and washing machine leaks, where detergents or food particles are mingled in with the water supply. Gray water, like clean water, may also cause mold damage in unattended situations and can also potentially lead to other structural issues depending on the type of contaminant in the water.

Category 3 (Black Water)

This is the most uncommon form of water damage as well as the most dangerous. Black water contains extremely unsanitary agents including bacteria and fungus, and contaminate all surfaces it touches. Black water damage is usually caused by natural disasters such as storms and floods, where debris is washed into the water, or from ruptured sewage lines or septic tanks. This type of water damage must be handled by a professional restoration firm and potentially the state environmental protection agency, as the consequences of leaving the situation untreated or improper treatment can be devastating to many others besides the property owner.

In addition to the types of water damage, there are also various classifications to specify the rate of evaporation for a water damage scenario. This information is subsequently utilized by the technicians to determine the proper method of dryout and an approximate timeline.

Class 1 (Slow Evaporation Rate)

This is the most benign level of water damage in which only a part of a room or area is affected, or the materials involved are relatively low permanence or porosity such as particle board, structural wood or plywood. In these situations, there is usually a minimal amount of moisture absorbed by materials and restoration time is typically fast.

Class 2 (Fast Evaporation Rate)

This class generally involves an entire room, or flood damage where water has wicked up to 24 inches on the wall. Moisture can be present in the structure as well. These scenarios are middle of the road as far as the work and time involved.

Class 3 (Fastest Evaporation Rate)

Class 3 situations commonly involves water that comes from above, either from an upstairs room or outside during heavy rain. In these scenarios, water has saturated more than 24 inches above the wall, posing severe structural risk and potential damage if not immediately addressed.

Class 4 (Specialty Drying Situations)

In this class, the surrounding structure and materials have very low permance/porosity, causing water to remain in saturated pockets throughout. Examples include hardwood, brick, concrete or other materials that do not have a high amount of absorption rate for moisture. These scenarios require very specific low humidity and ventilation solutions in order for water to be effectively removed.

While the class and categorization of a water emergency can usually be quickly inferred, be sure to double check with your water technician when they arrive on site to get the full scope of the situation after a professional inspection has been conducted. Your technician should be able to provide you with an approximate estimate of the timeframe, as well as details on the exact work that needs to be done to bring everything back up to speed. We will cover the various methods of water damage restoration in our next article so be sure to stay tuned!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jeffrey_Yang

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7336451

Sunday, May 12, 2024

Commercial Building Water Damage Vs. Residential Water Damage


Commercial buildings have water damages just like homes. There are many differences between buildings and homes that have water damage.

The big difference between homes and businesses is the type of carpet that gets wet. Residential water damages usually have carpet over padding. Not only is the carpet water damaged, but the padding is soaked in many cases or at least wet. The usual process is to remove the carpet from the floor and remove the padding. Then remove the tack strip that holds the carpet down. Many homeowners forget to remove the tack strip and when they add a carpet fan to dry the carpet, the tack strip can actually rip a hole in the carpet as the carpet is flapping up and down.

Commercial buildings usually have wet carpet that is glued to the floor which means there is no padding. Although that is good in one way, it creates another issue. The other issue is getting the bottom of the carpet that is glued to the floor to dry.

Most carpet cleaners and cleaning janitorial companies use an air mover that blows on the carpet to dry the carpet. The problem is that the air mover also known as a carpet fan only dries the surface of the carpet. The problem becomes bigger because unknown to the property manager, carpet cleaner, and janitorial service the bottom of the carpet is wet. The moisture underneath the carpet (remember that the carpet is glued to the floor and no one can feel underneath the carpet) will be a feeding ground for mold and bacteria. Building management professionals will know it's a problem a few days later as they smell a foul odor. That odor is the growth of bacteria and mold growing.

Unless you have a moisture meter to determine if the carpet is wet underneath, you have to assume that the carpet is dry by feeling the surface of the carpet. As we have just learned, that becomes a liability and opportunity for tenants and employees to complain and possibly bring legal action.

Drying underneath the carpet and preventing mold damage and bacteria growth is actually very easy. Remember that mold normally (but not always) takes 36 to 72 hours to start to grow. There are molds that grow faster, but this an average time period for most molds. This information tells us that we have some time to work fast to prevent an issue. Please also remember that this process can be used by untrained and uncertified employees for wet carpet areas less than a 3 feet x 3 feet. Any wet carpet areas more than this will need a IICRC certified professional.

First take the same air mover that you used to dry the wet area and actually keep the air mover on for another 24 hours after the carpet feels dry. You will need to purchase a moisture meter that will test the bottom of the carpet After 24 hours the carpet should read dry, but if not let it run another 24 hours. The reason you can dry underneath the carpet without taking the carpet up, is because through osmosis, drying the surface of the carpet will " suck " the moisture from the bottom of the carpet to the top. Removing the moisture will reduce the possibility of mold and bacteria growth.

There are more differences between drying a water damage in a home and in a commercial building such as fire walls, computer systems, complicated furniture.

Hospitals and pharmaceutical companies and other sensitive manufacturing companies have compounded issues. Because of concerns of dust and mold these issues may interfere with patients' health and manufacturing processes.

The bottom line is to be careful when hiring a water damage restoration clean up company. It's best for commercial property management to start searching now and creating emergency plans to make sure they have all needs covered. Planning your water damage recovery when the pipes burst is not the best way.

Jeffrey Cohn

SI Restoration

IICRC certified

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6746561

Thursday, May 9, 2024

What Are the Steps Involved in Water or Flood Damage Restoration Work?


When it comes to water damage, the major issue is that you usually can't see the full extent of the problem with the naked eye. This is where a professional water or flood disaster restoration team comes in. With their specialized tools, equipment, and knowledge, these experts will be able to properly assess the situation, fully dry and restore your home, and check in afterward to make sure the restoration is complete. That means that you don't have to worry about lingering dampness, mold, or bacteria growth. Instead, you can get back to enjoying your home in comfort.

If you've experienced water damage in your home and you call on a water and flood restoration service for assistance, the first thing they will do is to perform a moisture assessment. Your restoration company will determine the location or source of the moisture and the extent of the area affected. This part of the process ensures that all the damage is taken into account--even the parts not visible--before the restoration process begins. Once the assessment has been made, your restoration professionals will use specialized equipment to remove standing water, complete drying with air movement, and clean any carpeting thoroughly. With these different steps, your restoration professionals will be able to totally dry your home and sanitize the area.

After the core drying out work comes the most important part of the water damage restoration process: the follow-up. Water damage is a very difficult problem to deal with because it can be so hidden. Even if you get the most thorough flood or water damage remediation company in to take care of the problem, it's possible that there will be a lingering issue or dampness somewhere. However, most restoration professionals offer follow-up services because they know of this potential. After completing the restoration and drying work, and depending on the severity of the damage, they will either come back for a post-job assessment, or you can call them if you notice any issues. This crucial stage in the restoration process should not be skipped. If there's any chance that some dampness may have gone untreated, get it taken care of immediately so that it doesn't lead to more serious issues down the line.

Experiencing flood or water damage in your home is unpleasant, but it does not have to be an impossible situation. With assessment, restoration, and follow-up services provided by a professional water restoration company, you can get your home back to normal in no time.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Maria_Allen/914516

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6800241

Monday, May 6, 2024

How to Understand Two-Prong Outlets | Ask This Old House


In this video, Ask This Old House electrician Heath Eastman explains what two-prong receptacles are, why they’re no longer to code, and how to replace them. SUBSCRIBE to This Old House: http://bit.ly/SubscribeThisOldHouse. What should a person do with their two-pronged outlet when so many cords have three-prongs? To answer this, Heath has to take a step back and clarify a few things. He goes through the correct terminology of an outlet, a receptacle, and a receptacle outlet. Afterwards, Heath explains that the number of prongs has more to do with the wiring behind the receptacle than it does with the receptacle itself. Pre-1960’s, homes used two conductors, but post-1960’s a third conductor was introduced for safety, the ground wire. The ground wire will safely carry a stray, potentially dangerous, current away from risk of causing a fire or electrocution. Heath then explains that replacing them can be costly if there is no ground present, as it will require rewiring the whole room or home. However, he shares another way to get a grounded, three-prong receptacle without rewiring- using a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Heath explains how the GFCI receptacle outlet works and gives some tips on how to install one.

Cost: $20 for a GFCI and $200 for professional installation

Friday, May 3, 2024

Do this immediately after water damage to your home